Growing Tips

A BRIEF ROSE GUIDE - Rosemary Gandy *

FLORIBUNDA ROSES

These roses produce masses of flowers and provide much colour over the whole summer. The flowers vary considerably in their size and number of petals. Regular dead – heading and a second application of fertilizer during the flowering period make them an excellent rose for a very pleasing effect. Very good for mass or group planting.

HYBRID TEA ROSES

The classic rose, beautiful in shape and form. The blooms often amaze by their shear perfection. They are more formal than the Floribunda. Excellent used as individual plants or in a more formal rose bed.

SMOOTH TOUCH THORNLESS ROSES

These are 95% to 100% thornless and are a recent addition to our list for customers who prefer to grow roses without thorns. Use planted singly or in rose beds.

POLYANTHA ROSES

Polyantha – Greek for many flowers. This plant has smaller flowers borne in closely packed bunches. They flower continuously and usually grow between 2 to 3 feet. They all date from the late nineteenth century to early twentieth century. Ideal for rose beds or the front of a border.

CLIMBING ROSES

Suitable for walls, fences, pergolas, arches and obelisks. We hold a very good range of varieties many of which are fragrant and flower for most of the summer.

CLIMBING SPORT OF HYBRID TEA AND FLORIBUNDA ROSES

These are the climbing form of some of the leading Hybrid Tea and Floribunda Roses. Their flowers are identical to their bush counterparts. They flower fairly well, although many tend to have a spectacular flowering period of around six weeks then intermittent blooms for the rest of the summer.

RAMBLING ROSES

They are the ramblers and scramblers. Vigorous though usually lax growth, with long shoots that can readily be trained on supporting structures. Suitable for walls, fences, pergolas and growing into large trees.

A question often asked is what is the difference between a climber and a rambler? The definitions above provide the answer but because of their mixed inheritance and more modern varieties now in cultivation, many ramblers and climbers can be used in the same places.

TIP Don't forget you can plant a Clematis and a climbing/rambling rose in the same planting hole, the result is spectacular.

GETTING THE BEST FROM YOUR ROSES

Where to Use Roses

Roses are very adaptable and forgiving and they will benefit from good care. However, they do prefer sunlight to cold draughty shade.

They can be used in borders, in large or small beds, for hedging, for patios, as ramblers and in miniature or to decorate a window ledge.

Soil & Soil Preparation

1. New Beds

Double dig in late autumn, adding plenty of organic matter, preferably well rotted farmyard manure or garden compost - avoid hot manures. Dress with appropriate fertiliser.

2. Existing Beds

Do not plant roses where roses have been grown before (this is due to the possible presence of rose soil sickness). If you wish to use the same location, dig out the existing soil to a depth of two feet by two feet.

Fill with soil from elsewhere in the garden, adding organic matter and dressing as above.

3. Containers

Ideally containers should have a width/depth of two feet by two feet to allow the roots to grow correctly.

Planting

ROOTGROW - use this friendly mycorrhizal fungi when planting your roses it will enable the plant to grow a wonderful root system which will support and nurture your plant making it more able to take up water and nutrients.

1. General

Allow two feet between your rose and any other plant (see complimentary planting for exceptions) and one foot between the rose and any walls or fences. Miniatures and Patio Roses may be planted more closely.

Plant so that the budding union (where the branches first grow out of the stem) remains at least two inches below ground level. Plant in a mixture of equal parts soil/peat based compost, plus one ounce of fertiliser or bonemeal.

 

2. Container grown plants

Ease contents from the pot, place in the hole and add the mixture (above) and firm gently.

3. Bare rooted plants

Soak in water overnight. If the roots appear very dry, soak in water for a few days before planting. Then plant as above.

4. Stakes

If you are planning to use a stake – push it firmly into the planting hole before planting the rose.

5. Watering

When planting is complete, soak the plant well with about one gallon of water (five litres). ALWAYS remove the sprinkler from the watering can when watering your roses. They love a good soak.

Feeding & Mulching

ROOTGROW-ROOTFOOD

Natural plant nutrition to maintain your plants health and vigour.Easy to use as a granule or by watering can as a root drench or a foliar leaf feed.

Mulch all newly planted roses immediately and all other roses annually. This will retain moisture.

Feed twice a year. Once in early spring after pruning and again in mid to late June after the first flowering.

Pruning & Dead Heading

When?

1. Spring pruning

Prune established roses before the new seasons growth begins. This is usually in March but if winter has been mild keep your eyes open for the first signs of activity and prune accordingly.

2. Summer pruning

Called "Dead Heading", this removal of spent flower heads is most important to ensure the rose flowers again. If you want a second flowering do not let rose hips appear.

3. Autumn pruning

Tidy up the plant before winter, cutting back top growth on bushes and shrubs. This decreases wind resistance ensuring the roots will not be disturbed by "wind rock" and prevents ice forming.

4. Newly planted roses

Prune ALL newly planted roses, with the exception of climbers and ramblers

* Rosemary Gandy Director and Company Secretary of Gandys Roses Limited

Born at the North Kilworth Nursery. 40 years horticultural experience.
Chairman British Rose Growers Association 1994 and 1995
Vice Chairman British Rose Growers Association 1992 and 1993
Member policy Committee 1996

Liaison Member British Rose Group and Glasgow City Council

Judge City of Glasgow International Rose Trials Tollcross Park Glasgow Years 1999 to 2008

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